Friday, December 28, 2012
Thursday, December 27, 2012
Wednesday, December 26, 2012
The 2013 Optima has earned a "Top Safety Pick" designation from the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety!
Top Safety Pick's received the highest rating of "good" in all four of the crash worthiness tests (frontal offset, side, rear, and roof strength).
Thursday, December 20, 2012
Tuesday, December 18, 2012
Thursday, December 13, 2012
Valley-Hi Kia received a wonderful 5-star review on Super Pages!
Wednesday, December 12, 2012
Check out the 2013 Kia Soul featured in molten red!
The Kia Soul provides the hottest entertainment on the road with its available Premium UVO, Infinity Audio System with center speaker, subwoofer, external amplifier and speaker lights as well as tweeter speakers! Tweet us what you love most about the Kia Soul @ValleyHiKiaCA!
Tuesday, December 11, 2012
Thursday, December 6, 2012
Qualified buyers can receive 0.9% APR (36 months) on the 2013 Kia Optima!
Click here to view this manufacturer event!
Qualified buyers can receive 0.9% APR (36 months) on the 2013 Kia Optima!
Wednesday, December 5, 2012
Do you have two vehicles in need of an oil change?
Stop by Valley-Hi Kia and receive an oil change for free with this 2 for 1 coupon! 
Tuesday, December 4, 2012
Monday, December 3, 2012
Consumers Digest has named the beautiful 2012 Kia Sportage a Best Buy!
Best Buy recipients are based on what vehicles Consumers Digest believes offers the most value for the money in their respective vehicle classes. This vehicle is truly a best buy due to its excellent purchase price and ownership cost relative to subjective factors like comfort, performance styling and utility!
Thursday, November 29, 2012
Wednesday, November 28, 2012
Tuesday, November 27, 2012
Monday, November 26, 2012
Say hello to the striking and stylish 2013 Kia Forte!
The Forte Sedan is an IIHS Top Safety Pick for receiving the highest rating of "good" in all four crash worthiness tests (frontal offset, side, rear, and roof strength) and for having electronic stability control!
Valley-Hi Kia received an outstanding review on Yelp!
Valley-Hi Kia received a fantastic review on Dealer Rater!
Wednesday, November 21, 2012
Kia is celebrating 20 years in the United States!
From humble beginnings of manufacturing bicycles in Korea, to our official start of U.S. sales in 1994, Kia has grown to become a fierce competitor in this country. Along the way, Kia has developed relationships with more than 4 million people: our valued customers!
Tuesday, November 20, 2012
A Unique Journey With The Kia Car
It is amazing on how the Kia car works smoothly on the road. It's an investment that will make your transportation life easier to deal with. It makes all things attainable. The way it performs gives enough focus and determination for every car owner to do things appropriately. It is every person's dream to have a kind of car that can be with them in all seasons. It is a durable and tough vehicle. It will not let you down. If you're looking for a vehicle, Kia has everything that will match your interest and personality. It is available in different unique models. The Kia vehicle is considered as a genuine investment in a lot of ways.
Courtesy of Rubber-Plastic.net Blog
Monday, November 19, 2012
The 2013 Kia Rio has received the UA EPA SmartWay Certification Mark!
EPA designation is given to the cleanest most fuel-efficient vehicles, based on their greenhouse gas and air pollution score. Going green has never looked so good!
Wednesday, November 14, 2012
Bring out the dancing hamsters because the 2013 Kia Soul has all of the entertainment features that you love!
This exciting car has an available Infinity Audio System, UVO Powered by Microsoft Infotainment System and SiriusXM Audio System!
Monday, November 12, 2012
Take a cruise in the stunning new 2013 Kia Optima and feel the luxury of this incredible sedan!
The 2013 Optima provides you with dual front airbags, front-seat-mounted side airbags and side curtain airbags to help minimize injury when accident is unavoidable. Moreover, the 2013 Optima provides you with over 102 cubic feet of passenger volume and over 15 cubic feet of cargo volume!
Valley-Hi Kia has received a wonderful 5-star review on Yelp!
Thursday, November 8, 2012
Wednesday, November 7, 2012
Visit Valley Hi Kia and receive a discounted oil change with this fantastic coupon!
Click here to claim your coupon!
Tuesday, November 6, 2012
Thursday, November 1, 2012
The Stylish Spacious 2013 Kia Carens Has Now Been Released
Courtesy of Ilutions (Blog)
Tuesday, October 30, 2012
NBA All-Star Blake Griffin Travels Back In Time
With the 2012-13 NBA season about to tip off, Kia Motors' global brand ambassador, superstar Blake Griffin, is back in a series of humorous new television commercials featuring the fast-growing automaker's best-selling Optima midsize sedan and innovative UVO voice-activated infotainment system. In the five 30-second spots, Griffin offers helpful suggestions to younger versions of himself as Kia's UVO voice-activated infotainment system takes his futuristic Optima on a time-traveling musical journey through the mid-1990s and early-2000s. Griffin's deadpan delivery and dry sense of humor shines in the first two commercials as he urges younger versions of himself to forget about playing football and spend more time practicing free throws in another spot.
Beginning tomorrow, the first two commercials – titled "Free Throw" (circa 1995) and "Football" (circa 1997), will debut on television with three additional spots scheduled to roll out throughout the NBA season, along with a presence on all Kia social and digital platforms including Facebook, YouTube and Kia.com.
"Blake turned people's heads after his famous dunk over a Kia Optima in the Sprite® Slam Dunk contest at NBA All-Star 2011, and his on-court talent combined with his unique comedic style and personality have translated into a powerful partnership that has helped raise awareness and brand perception for Kia," said Michael Sprague, executive vice president of marketing & communications, KMA. "Griffin is one of the most exciting and recognizable young athletes in the world, and this latest campaign pairs Griffin's basketball wisdom and athleticism with the youthful style, performance and cutting-edge technology of our wildly popular Optima midsize sedan and the award-winning UVO infotainment system."
Created by David&Goliath, KMA's advertising agency of record, the Griffin spots were helmed by renowned director Paul Hunter, who directed last year's commercials featuring Griffin and is credited with award-winning spots for Nike and Burger King. "Free Throw" and "Football" are available now at YouTube.com/Kia, and will make their television debuts tomorrow on network and cable programming.
About Blake Griffin
Selected first overall by the Los Angeles Clippers, Blake Griffin took the NBA by storm in his rookie season and broke records every step of the way. Known for his high-flying dunks and unwavering physicality, Griffin competed on the 2011 NBA All-Star Team, the first rookie All-Star voted to the game by coaches since Tim Duncan in 1998. He won the 2011 Sprite Slam Dunk contest, participated in the NBA All-Star Rookie Challenge & Youth Jam, and was named the 2010-11NBA Rookie of the Year. A highlight reel sensation equipped with the size, strength, quickness and skill to keep his household name buzzworthy for many years to come, Griffin has transformed the Clippers into a must-watch franchise. A native of Oklahoma City, Okla., the 6'9" power forward attended the University of Oklahoma, where he was one of the highest rated and most decorated recruits in Sooners history. A media magnet, Griffin already has earned numerous accolades, including the Oscar Robertson Trophy, Adolph Rupp Trophy, John Wooden Award, Naismith Award, Sports Illustrated Player of the Year, multiple NBA Western Conference Rookie of the Month honors and many more; for more information go to www.blakegriffin.com or follow him at @blakegriffin.
About the 2013 Kia Optima
With a luxury appearance and a refined interior, the 2013 Optima is available in three trims, LX, EX and SX, and offers a wide array of convenience and luxury as well as impressive technology features like an AM/FM/CD/MP3/Sat audio system with SiriusXM Traffic™ Satellite Radio capabilities and three months complimentary service2, auxiliary and USB audio input jacks, standard Bluetooth®3 wireless connectivity with steering wheel-mounted voice activation controls, and Kia's new UVO powered by Microsoft® voice-activated infotainment system. Available with three powerful and fuel-efficient engines, a 2.4-liter GDI four-cylinder4, a 2.0-liter GDI turbo5 or a 2.4-liter hybrid that achieves up to 40 miles per gallon on the highway6, the stylish and performance-oriented midsize sedan begins at $21,2007 for 2013.
Kia's Unprecedented Growth
Kia Motors is one of the world's fastest moving global automotive brands; from 2009-2011 Kia launched more new vehicles in the U.S. than any other automaker, and under the guidance of chief design officer Peter Schreyer earned a reputation as an industry leader in automotive styling. Kia Motors America's full line of fuel-efficient and fun-to-drive cars and CUVs has earned critical acclaim and dramatically increased consumer awareness, perception and consideration for the brand. In 2011, KMA recorded its 17th consecutive year of market share growth, thanks in part to the largest increase of any major brand in perceived quality8 and the industry's highest brand loyalty ranking9. Kia's U.S.-based manufacturing facility in West Point, Georgia – KMMG – is responsible for the creation of more than 10,000 plant and supplier jobs and builds two of the company's best-selling vehicles in the U.S. – the Sorento CUV and Optima midsize sedan*. Kia's value and technology-laden lineup also includes the Sportage compact CUV, Soul urban passenger vehicle, Optima Hybrid, Forte compact sedan, Forte 5-door compact hatchback, Forte Koup two-door coupe, Rio and Rio 5-door sub-compacts and Sedona minivan.
About Kia Motors America
Kia Motors America is the marketing and distribution arm of Kia Motors Corporation based in Seoul, South Korea. KMA offers a complete line of vehicles through more than 755 dealers throughout the United States and serves as the "Official Automotive Partner" of the NBA and LPGA. In 2011, KMA recorded its best-ever annual sales total and became one of the fastest growing car companies in the U.S.10 Kia is poised to continue its momentum and will continue to build the brand through design innovation, quality, value, advanced safety features and new technologies.
Source: Kia Media
Monday, October 29, 2012
Monday Maintenance Tip: Focus on Car Care for Vehicle Longevity
According to Edmunds data, owners are keeping their cars longer than ever, a trend that is expected to continue until the economy recovers. As more of the nation's cars exceed 75,000 miles and approach the 100,000-mile mark, regular maintenance becomes an increasingly important way to prevent costly car repairs.
To help you coax extra miles out of your current car, we wanted to know what consumers could expect to pay to keep their cars running longer. We estimated the cost of scheduled maintenance (service at specific intervals recommended by the manufacturer) and car repairs (unanticipated fixes) for 75,000 miles of normal use for the nation's 10 best-selling vehicles (for 2011 and the first two months of 2012). Additionally, we estimated how much you would pay in maintenance to push those odometers all the way to five zeros. The results are below.
Repair/Maintenance Costs for Top 10 Best-Selling Vehicles
| Make/Model | Repair to 75K Miles | Scheduled Maintenance to 75K Miles | Scheduled Maintenance to 100K Miles |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ford F-150 | $855 | $1,747 | $2,646 |
| Chevrolet Silverado 1500 | $791 | $1,491 | $2,532 |
| Toyota Camry | $654 | $1,308 | $2,037 |
| Nissan Altima | $654 | $1,490 | $1,956 |
| Ford Escape | $814 | $1,304 | $1,937 |
| Ford Fusion | $772 | $1,549 | $2,240 |
| Honda Accord | $654 | $1,443 | $1,899 |
| Toyota Corolla | $654 | $1,383 | $1,992 |
| Chevrolet Cruze | $780 | $1,445 | $2,316 |
| Honda Civic | $654 | $1,229 | $1,706 |
The maintenance and repair costs shown are national unweighted model averages reflecting manufacturer-recommended scheduled maintenance services for vehicles driven in "normal" conditions over 75,000 and 100,000 miles. To arrive at the costs, parts pricing is for original equipment manufacturer maintenance parts at manufacturer-suggested retail price. Labor times and labor rates are based on published information from third-party sources.
What the Data Shows
The Ford F-150 is the best-selling vehicle in the U.S., but among the vehicles our top 10 list, it is also the most expensive to maintain to 100K miles. That said, it is only $114 more than the Chevrolet Silverado, its closest competitor. Trucks have larger engines which require more quarts of oil and more parts, so it's only natural that their maintenance costs would be more than a typical car.
Five brands have sedans in the top 10, so we compared their costs and found some interesting contrasts. Foreign brands are commonly thought to be more expensive to repair than domestic ones. But through 75,000 miles of use, the Ford Fusion costs $241 more in scheduled maintenance than the top-selling Toyota Camry. In fairness to the Fusion, the Camry's costs are lowered by its two years of free maintenance. The Honda Accord does not have free maintenance but still manages to cost about $106 less than the Fusion.
If you drive a car for a full 100,000 miles, the Honda Civic emerges as the overall maintenance-savings winner, with an estimated 26 percent ($610) lower cost of scheduled maintenance costs than its domestic competitor, the Chevrolet Cruze.
Some people might think that crossovers are more expensive to maintain than sedans. But the Ford Escape, the only crossover in our top 10 list, has repair costs that are less than five sedans on the list.
Reliability and Warranties
Many people buy vehicles from Japanese manufacturers because of their cars' reputation for long-term reliability. But is that idea borne out within the top 10 best sellers? Not by much. Within the 75,000 miles that our data covers, the difference in repair costs is minimal. The Camry, Honda Accord and Altima each cost an estimated 15 percent less in car repairs over 75,000 miles than the Ford Fusion does — but that's only a $118 difference. More importantly, should an expensive drivetrain part fail after 60,000 miles, Chevrolet's 100,000-mile drivetrain coverage will protect you. The drivetrain warranties by Toyota, Honda and Nissan stop at the 60,000-mile mark.
Warranty Coverage for Top 10 Best-Selling Vehicle Brands in Years/Miles
| Make | Basic | Drivetrain | Rust/Corrosion | Roadside Assistance |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chevrolet | 3/36,000 | 5/100,000 | 6/100,000 | 5/100,000 |
| Ford | 3/36,000 | 5/60,000 | 5/Unlimited | 5/60,000 |
| Honda | 3/36,000 | 5/60,000 | 5/Unlimited | None Available |
| Nissan | 3/36,000 | 5/60,000 | 5/Unlimited | 3/36,000* |
| Toyota | 3/36,000 | 5/60,000 | 5/Unlimited | 2/25,000 |
*Nissan: Towing to nearest Nissan dealer if your vehicle is inoperative due to the failure of a part under warranty.
Of course, the cost of maintenance and repairs are only two factors in judging a car's True Cost to Own (TCO®). Toyota still enjoys strong resale value, which figures very prominently in a vehicle's overall value. And driving your car for 75,000 or 100,000 miles — even if it costs more to maintain — is almost always a better value proposition than trading it in for a new car.
Spend Now, Save Later
Proper vehicle maintenance is clearly a case where an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, but still, tough economic times and busy lifestyles can push car maintenance down on many owners' to-do lists. Recent findings by the Car Care Council found that 28 percent of cars surveyed had low or dirty engine oil, 24 percent had inadequate cooling protection, 20 percent needed new belts and 18 percent had low or contaminated brake and transmission fluid — all potentially costly problems that regular maintenance can prevent.
Fortunately, the days of shelling out money for oil changes every 3,000 miles are long gone. Forget that old rule of thumb. Only your owner's manual, which you can also find online, is the bona fide source for a vehicle's maintenance schedule, from when to rotate the tires to the frequency of transmission service.
Don't rely solely on more general recommendations, and certainly not the "dealer's recommended schedule," which will cost you more than necessary. If you want to look at extending oil change intervals, you can also have your oil analyzed. Following the manufacturer's schedule carefully not only means fewer problems as a car ages; it also prevents the manufacturer from ever voiding your warranty based on "neglect."
Source: Edmunds
Thursday, October 25, 2012
Wednesday, October 24, 2012
Car Tip of the Week: Know the Cargo Weight Limits of Your SUV
New vehicle segments, technology and safety legislation — along with commonsense driving advice — can go a long way toward insuring that the worst does not occur when you're behind the wheel of a sport-utility vehicle. A few years ago it seemed that every commercial for an SUV included a group of hard-bodied 20-somethings set to conquer the wilderness. They high-fived their way through whitewater rapids, forests and the occasional desert with kayaks, mountain bikes and backpacks scattered inside — and on top of — their vehicle. However, in the real world of bulky baby seats and traffic jams, these scenes of off-road machismo make as much sense as a Good Humor truck at the North Pole.
SUVs appeal to consumers because of their greater cargo capacity and perceived go-anywhere capability. Compared to typical sedans and station wagons, it seems logical that a larger 4WD vehicle would offer both these advantages with few tradeoffs. This is despite the fact that many SUVs have a payload capacity (how much weight they can carry) that is considerably less than what buyers assume. Once an SUV is overloaded, the chance of a rollover increases dramatically.
The taller height of an SUV (which provides a commanding view of the road that many consumers love about their SUVs) also raises the chance of a rollover. Due to their higher center of gravity, SUVs are more prone to roll over than passenger cars that ride closer to the ground. Overloading an already top-heavy SUV not only raises the risk of rollover; it also places added stress on the brakes and can cause a tire blowout — especially if the tires are improperly inflated. Automakers have taken some steps toward improving the segment with a mix of new models and advanced technology.
One of the newer trends in the sport-utility market is the emergence of crossover vehicles, or what the media sometimes refers to as "soft-roaders." This segment is becoming increasingly popular with people who enjoy the style and space of an SUV, but are happy to trade rock-climbing capability for more carlike manners. Vehicles in this segment include the BMW X3, Ford Edge, Chevy Traverse, Nissan Murano and Toyota Highlander. These vehicles sit lower to the ground, permitting easier entry and exit with the added benefit of a lower center of gravity. Crossover vehicles are tuned for on-road handling and ride comfort, and are usually based upon an existing car platform. For example, the Toyota Highlander shares much of its structure with the Camry, whereas the X3 has the same underpinnings as the BMW 3 Series Sedan. Not surprisingly, this segment has fared better in rollover studies compared with traditional truck-based SUVs.
The options sheet can play a large role in SUV safety, too. Stability control can prevent accidents due to rollover and/or tire blowout. This system goes by many different names: GM's StabiliTrak, Mercedes' ESP (Electronic Stability Program), Ford's AdvanceTrac, Toyota's VSC (Vehicle Skid Control) and so on. No matter the name, nor the manufacturer, the systems do pretty much the same thing- computer sensors spring into action upon sensing that the vehicle is about to go out of control. These sensors can cut engine power and brake individual wheels to help the driver regain control and keep the vehicle heading in the intended direction. The hoped for end result being that car and owner escape unscathed from a situation in which — without the aid of a quick-thinking computer — a crash would have been inevitable.
Legislation pertaining to SUV safety has made it easier to know the limitations of your vehicle. As of September 2004, the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) has required the tire label on the doorjamb of a vehicle to say what the maximum combined weight of occupants and cargo is for all vehicles with a GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) of 10,000 pounds or less. It had previously been up to the manufacturer to publish the maximum load carrying capacity either in the owner's manual or somewhere inside the vehicle. Without this vital piece of information, SUV owners could unknowingly overload their vehicle and increase their chances of a rollover accident.
Industry watchdog Consumer Reports publishes the recommended load capacity of many vehicles. They warn that having an SUV doesn't necessarily mean that your vehicle can handle a lot of cargo. For example, a Lexus RX is listed as having a load capacity of 910 pounds. With five 191-pound people onboard, this maximum would soon be reached — with nary a kayak or mountain bike onboard. Of course, load capacity is only one factor that might cause an SUV with an already high center of gravity to roll over.
Equally important is making sure that the tires are properly inflated. Go with the tire-pressure specifications shown in the doorjamb or owner's manual, not the tire's sidewall. Take into account that tire pressure increases after the vehicle has been driven and the tires are warm. Underinflated tires heat up more quickly and become more prone to failure. Checking the tire pressure is made much easier if you buy a digital tire gauge — sold in many auto supply stores for less than $20. Tire-pressure sensors are quickly becoming standard equipment on all vehicles sold in the United States, and can issue a helpful warning if the tire pressure is too low.
A quick check of the tire pressure is also a good time to give each tire a simple visual inspection. Tire tread depth can be checked by using a small, inexpensive gauge. As on any vehicle, the tread on the tires should be uniform and have a depth of more than 1/16 of an inch. Any signs of damage, such as cuts or bulges in the sidewall, should be rectified immediately. Be sure to follow the tire rotation schedule in the owner's manual. Fitment of aftermarket wheels can also contribute to excessive tire wear and dramatically change an SUV's ride and handling dynamics. It's worth checking with the manufacturer before fitting a set of wheels that you think might be outside the tolerance of your SUV's suspension system.
Lastly, no matter what SUV you buy or what optional electronic devices it might have, the best way to prevent a rollover begins with smart driving. You don't have to be Mario Andretti to understand the safe way to drive an SUV. In fact, the best tips are simple common sense.
Generally speaking, an SUV is heavier and takes longer to stop than a passenger car. Quick steering inputs that are possible in a car could lead to big trouble in an SUV. Say, for example, that a vehicle suddenly stops in the path of the SUV you are driving. The panic reaction is to cut the steering wheel to avoid the obstacle, then to cut it back to return to your lane. This back and forth motion sets up the potential for a rollover because the higher center of gravity is swung first to one side, and then turned to the other side with increasing force.
Some precautions you can take may seem obvious; don't tailgate the car in front of you, signal your intentions and always be scanning the road ahead and to the sides. The same good habits one should use while driving any vehicle apply — pay attention to what you're doing, be aware of what's going on around you and use your head. Remember that having four-wheel drive does not help when it comes time to stop or turn quickly. During a snowstorm, you might have better motive traction with a four-wheel-drive SUV when pulling away from a stoplight. However, once you have to stop or turn suddenly, be aware that an SUV's considerable weight and higher center of gravity are working against you.
Before loading your SUV up with friends, suitcases and pet Pug, know exactly how much weight can be safely transported. Visually inspect the tires and make sure the tire pressure meets the manufacturer's recommendation. When you're ready to buy your next vehicle, check out all the options on the market, such as electronic stability control, or perhaps a car-based crossover vehicle. Above all, be sensible, on the road and on the showroom floor, and choose the vehicle that best suits your specific needs and weight-carrying requirements.
Source: Edmunds
Tuesday, October 23, 2012
Batman-Themed 2013 Kia Optima SX Limited Unveiled
Kia has taken the wraps off of the Batman-themed 2013 Kia Optima SX Limited, the first of eight Justice League vehicles it is building with comic book publisher DC Entertainment and Rides magazine.
The Korean Batmobile gets a custom front grille shaped like a bat wing.
Superman, Wonder Woman, Green Lantern, The Flash, Aquaman and Cyborg will be matched to other Kias in the coming months.
Customization of the Kia Batmobile starts with the exterior of the turbo sedan being outfitted in a mix of matte and piano black paint, and continues with a coil-over kit, body kit, exhaust system and 20-inch blacked-out wheels with Batman center caps. Other details include yellow underbody lighting and a Bat signal etched into the HID headlights.
The interior gets black leather-and-suede upholstery with yellow accent stitching, a center console with "utility throwing stars" as well as a Bat suit for crime-fighting purposes in the trunk.
Kia, DC and Rides will release customization packages based on other Justice League members in the next few months. Some of the featured superheroes are Superman, Green Lantern, Wonder Woman, The Flash, Aquaman and Cyborg, and Kia says the Soul, Sorento, Sportage, Rio and Forte will be some of the models outfitted for the next projects.
The partnership is raising awareness of DC Entertainment's "We Can Be Heroes" giving campaign that fights hunger in the Horn of Africa. Each car will eventually be auctioned off to raise money for the cause.
Source: Edmunds
Monday, October 22, 2012
Monday Maintenance Tip: Oil Life Monitoring Systems
Until recently, the question of when to change your oil was usually answered by your local garage, which had a vested interest in servicing your car every 3,000 miles. Your alternative was to crack the owner's manual to see whether your driving habits fell into the "severe" or "normal" category. And then you'd let the listed interval be your frequency guide.
But increasingly, the change-interval question is being answered by a vehicle's oil life monitoring system, which signals the driver through the instrument panel. This alert usually arrives anywhere between 5,000 and 8,000 miles.
So how does the system know when it's time for a change? Electronic sensors throughout the drivetrain send information about engine revolutions, temperature and driving time to the car's computer. The data is run through a mathematical algorithm that predicts when the oil will begin to degrade. The light comes on well in advance, giving the owner time to get the car serviced.
Oil life monitoring systems have been around for several decades. They were introduced in General Motors vehicles in the late 1980s and have been phased in slowly, said Matt Snider, project engineer in GM's Fuels and Lubricants Group. "We are very confident in the accuracy of the system," he said. The average recommendation from the system for GM vehicles is 8,500 miles, Snider said. He said that the longest oil change interval he was personally aware of was 17,000 miles in a colleague's car. For 2010 vehicles, 14 of 35 manufacturers use oil life monitoring systems.
Real-World Evidence
The oil life monitoring system in a 2007 Honda Fit Sport owned by an Edmunds.com editor signaled for an oil change at 5,500 miles, due to a lot of around-town driving. Later, under highway conditions, the system (which Honda calls a "maintenance minder") came on at 7,600 miles. Clearly, the system had detected different driving conditions and adjusted accordingly.
When we had the oil changed, we captured a sample and sent it to Blackstone Laboratories. Showing the conservative nature of the oil life sensors, the analysis showed the oil had at least 2,000 miles of life left in it.
A long-term 2008 Pontiac G8 GT driven by Edmunds went 13,000 miles before the monitoring system indicated the need for an oil change. We also sent a sample of that oil to a lab for analysis. The result: The oil could actually have safely delivered at least another 2,000 miles of service. "With an oil life system, we can use the software to tailor an oil drain interval to the behavior of a certain customer," Snider said.
Freed From the Schedules
Perhaps the best thing about oil life monitoring systems is that they free car owners from the confusing exercise of slotting themselves in the normal or severe driving schedules listed in the owner's manual. Severe conditions are described differently by various carmakers, but some "severe" conditions that they frequently cite are driving in stop-and-go traffic, towing, excessive idling and driving in the mountains.
In many cases, quick-oil-change outlets and dealerships' service departments encourage frequent oil changes by claiming that every driver falls in the severe category. This begs the question: Why have a normal category at all? Oil life monitoring systems put an end to the debate by reacting to how you actually drive.
Using an Oil Life Monitoring System
If your car has an oil life monitoring system, read your owner's manual to get a feel for how it's going to communicate with you. In general, the systems are designed to be easily understood and used. Some systems will display the percentage of oil life left so you can schedule a service visit. The systems factor in plenty of extra time for the driver who procrastinates. For additional motivation, however, some systems will display a negative number to show just how overdue the oil change is.
When a technician changes the oil, he resets the monitoring system. Do-it-yourselfers can easily do the reset, too, just by using a series of commands found in the owner's manual.
Source: Edmunds
Thursday, October 18, 2012
Wednesday, October 17, 2012
Check out these amazing service specials!
Take advantage of the incredible deals and savings available on routine maintenance performed by our expertly trained service technicians.
Click here to see our monthly service specials and print your coupon today: http://bit.ly/MsucNDTuesday, October 16, 2012
Monday, October 15, 2012
Monday Maintenance Tip: What Your Check Engine Light Is Telling You
When your car's "Check Engine" light comes on, it's usually accompanied by a sinking feeling in the pit of your stomach. The light could mean a costly problem, like a bad catalytic converter, or it could be something minor, like a loose gas cap. But in many cases, it means at minimum that you'll be visiting the car dealer to locate the malfunction and get the light turned off.
The Check Engine light — more formally known as the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) — is a signal from the car's engine computer that something is wrong. The car dealer's service department can diagnose the problem for about $75. But there's a way to preview what the problem might be.
Prior to 1996, carmakers had their own engine diagnostic systems, primarily to ensure their cars were compliant with Environmental Protection Agency pollution-control requirements. Starting with model-year 1996, automakers standardized their systems under a protocol called OBD-II, which stipulated a standardized list of diagnostic trouble codes (DTC) and mandated that all cars provide a universal connector to access this information. It's usually located under the steering column and is easy to access.
Deciphering the Code
Do-it-yourselfers can buy inexpensive code readers that connect to this standardized onboard diagnostics (OBD) port and search for the code's meaning on Web sites such as Engine Light Help. The Check Engine light can even be turned off by some code readers, even though this action alone does not actually repair the underlying problem. In many such cases the light will simply come back on later.
Experts say that many drivers confuse the "service required" light on the gauge cluster for the Check Engine light. These warning lights are unrelated. The service required light just means the car is due for an oil change or other routine maintenance. It is not the indicator of trouble that the Check Engine light is.
Check Engine lights come in orange, yellow or amber, depending on the manufacturer. If the light begins flashing, however, it indicates a more serious problem, such as a misfire that can quickly overheat the catalytic converter. These emissions devices operate at high temperatures to cut emissions, but can pose a fire hazard if faulty.
Don't Ignore That Light
So if the Check Engine light comes on and it's steady rather than flashing, what do you do? The most obvious answer, of course, is to get the engine checked. But many people do nothing, perhaps fearing an expensive repair bill. Some drivers with older cars want to squeeze out as many remaining miles as possible without visiting a service garage. But before they can pass their state's vehicle inspection, they have to get the light turned off. And a state inspection is a good motivator for dealing with the problem. If the light is lit, there's a good chance the car is releasing excess pollutants or consuming too much gas.
Ten percent of all cars on the road have a Check Engine light on, and the drivers of half of these cars have ignored the light for more than three months, says Kristin Brocoff, a spokesperson for CarMD.com. The company sells a $119 device that reads engine codes and provides access to a Web site database that identifies the problem (according to the code) and estimates the cost of repair.
CarMD isn't alone in the code-reader market. An Internet search will bring up countless devices, some costing as little as $40. Most come with a booklet listing the codes, but it is also easy to do a Google search to locate the codes. Aamco will check the Check Engine light for free and provides a fact sheet.
As Dan Edmunds, director of vehicle testing for Edmunds.com, points out, the system is primarily designed to continuously monitor a car's emissions system over the life of the car. However, he notes, "The engine and the emission control system are so interlinked that the health of the emission control system is a good indication of the general health of the car's engine."
Steve Mazor, the Auto Club of Southern California's chief automotive engineer, says that while some people freak out when they see the Check Engine light, "others just put a piece of black tape over it and keep driving." Mazor says it's important to promptly address problems indicated by the light. Ignoring them could lead to larger, more costly problems later.
If the light comes on, Mazor says the driver should first see if the gas cap is loose: That's a common cause. A loose cap sends an error message to the car's computer, reporting a leak in the vapor recovery system, which is one aspect of a car's emissions system. If the gas cap is loose, tighten it and continue driving. Even so, it will take some time for the light to go off, he says.
Mazor says that even an inexpensive code reader could be useful for car owners, even if they aren't mechanically inclined.
"If the mechanic gives you the same information, at least you know they are going down the right road," he notes. Edmunds agrees, adding that a code reader provides car owners with one more data point to help them talk with their mechanic and avoid costly or unnecessary auto repairs.
Mixed Signals
But even with the code and its meaning in hand, do-it-yourself interpretation can be a little tricky — even if you are mechanically inclined, as Dan Edmunds explains.
"My wife's car started running poorly and there was a Check Engine light. My code reader detected a code for the Cam Angle Sensor. I thought about buying the sensor and installing it myself, but if I had, I would have wasted time and money because it turned out that the sensor was fine. Instead, mice had gotten under the hood and had chewed some of the wires leading to it."
Occasionally, the Check Engine light comes on when nothing is wrong with the car, Mazor says. It could be a temporary problem caused by a change in humidity or other factors. In such cases, the light should go off by itself after a short time.
CarMD published a list of the five most common Check Engine light codes in 2010 and estimated cost of repair. In order of frequency, they are:
- O2 sensor (part of the emissions system, monitoring and helping adjust the air-fuel mixture)
- Loose gas cap
- Catalytic converter
- Mass air flow sensor (monitoring the amount of air mixed in the fuel injection system)
- Spark plug wires
Source: Edmunds
Thursday, October 11, 2012
Wednesday, October 10, 2012
Car Tip of the Week: How To Survive the Top 10 Driving Emergencies
Emergency #1: Tire Blowout
To survive a tire blowout, pretend you're the bad guy in a police chase: Push the gas and drive straight ahead. The shotgun-blast noise of a tire blowout makes most law-abiding drivers do exactly the wrong thing: attempt to slow down quickly and get off the road. With a rear-tire failure, any turning at high speed will likely result in a crash.
I've taught hundreds of drivers how to correctly handle a tire blowout: I sat in the passenger seat and exploded a gaping hole in the tire with plastic explosive. Not one lost control. Here's how they did it.
If a tire blows:
- Squeeze the gas pedal for a couple of seconds. This puts you in control of the car and directs the car straight down the road. It also prevents you from committing the mortal sins of braking and turning. After a couple of seconds, gently and smoothly release the accelerator pedal. The drag force of a completely flat tire is so potent that pushing the gas will not allow the vehicle to go faster.
- Most importantly, drive straight down your lane. Keep your feet away from the brake (or clutch).
- Allow the car to coast down to as slow a speed as is safe (30 mph is good). Engage your turn signal and gently turn toward the shoulder of the road that's on the same side as the blown tire: This lessens your chance of losing control and will make the tire change safer. If the situation requires, you may ever so lightly squeeze the brakes.
Almost all highway blowouts and tread separations occur with the car traveling in a straight line on a very hot day at high speeds with an underinflated tire. The repeated flexing of an underinflated tire causes the failure. Check your tire pressures!
Emergency #2: Tread Separation
Though the recovery techniques are nearly identical, a tread separation is more dangerous than a blowout. This is where the tread rubber and underlying steel belt partially or completely come off the tire. This creates a giant Weed Eater with a blade of steel-backed rubber spinning around at about 1,000 rpm. It'll scythe through the fuel tank, brake lines, inner fender panels, rear seats, side windows and, of course, flesh and bone.
An impending tread separation is usually announced by a consistent thumping noise, which will increase to a slapping sound, and then a metal-tearing jackhammer pounding. Sometimes this process takes days, other times only seconds. If you hear this, immediately slow down and take the tire to a professional for inspection. If you can see damage, put on the spare before proceeding.
If the tread begins to fly off:
- Squeeze the gas pedal for an instant and gently release it.
- Drive straight down your lane.
- Allow the car to coast down as much as is safely possible. You will likely have to apply the brakes lightly in order to reach a safe turning speed.
- Engage your turn signal and smoothly turn toward the shoulder of the road that's on the same side as the damaged tire.
Another reason why tread separations are more dangerous than blowouts: When the tread leaves the tire, the bad noise stops and some people think the car has magically cured itself. But instead of rolling along on grippy rubber, they're riding on fabric. Polyester will offer little grip when they take that next freeway off-ramp.
Emergency #3: Stuck Throttle
Thanks to things like loose floor mats and a poorly placed racecar throttle cable, I have experienced stuck throttles. Although this will be a rare occurrence for most drivers, if your engine starts racing away uncontrollably, it must be stopped immediately.
Take these actions:
- If the engine started racing when you pushed the brake, release the brake. If the engine stops racing, you were actually pushing the gas by mistake.
- Put the transmission in Neutral (and/or push in the clutch). Don't worry about the engine when you shift into Neutral: Engine speed limiters on modern cars will prevent damage. And it's OK if you get Reverse: The engine will either stall or act as if it were in Neutral.
- If you can't get Neutral, switch off the ignition as a last resort. Today's cars don't allow the key to turn to the locked position if the car is not in Park, and the car will be much harder to steer once the engine is off since the power-assist will not be working. Fortunately, with the engine off, there's still plenty of reserve braking power to stop the car. Of course, if the car is equipped with a newfangled keyless ignition, getting Neutral may be your only hope.
If you're a passenger in this situation and the driver fails to act, you can reach over and put the car in Neutral or switch off the engine. But to have any hope of acting properly with a stuck throttle, both driver and passenger must practice first. Find a training partner and an empty parking lot. First practice with the car stopped, just to make sure you know the drill. Move the shift lever from Drive to Neutral. Then turn the key off. Next, restart the car and accelerate to no more than 10 mph, then push the gas pedal to the floor (to simulate a stuck throttle) and hold it there through the rest of the exercise. Immediately, put the car in Neutral and switch off the key. Repeat the process but with the passenger working the shifter and key while you're still in the driver seat. Then, swap seats and repeat.
Emergency #4: Sudden Acceleration
Also called "unintended acceleration," this is identical to a stuck throttle...except it's not a mechanical failure but rather the driver accidentally pressing on the gas. As an instructor, I have had numerous panicked students push the gas in the mistaken, but unshakable, belief they were on the brakes. (Left-foot brakers more familiar with automatics frequently push the clutch.)
Know this: In every well-maintained modern car, the brakes will easily overpower the engine. If you're truly pushing the brakes as hard as you can, the car will stop even with the engine going full speed.
Emergency #5: Crisis Stop, Without ABS Without an antilock brake system (ABS), a good emergency stop requires a deft touch. You still must push the brake pedal hard, but not so hard that you skid the tires. Your goal: Be an organic version of ABS and bring the tires to the point they've almost stopped rolling. If they completely stop, grip drops precipitously and you must release brake pressure until the tires start rolling and then reapply brake pressure. Remember, if you lock the brakes, the car will not steer at all. In this situation, many drivers turn the wheel completely to the right or left: If they release the brake before the car comes to a stop, it will dart whichever way the wheels are pointed.
To practice: Find an empty parking lot. Start moving. Now squeeze the brake pedal. Increase the pressure until you hear just the barest hint of tire squeal. It's a "squeal of delight" and signals the tires are very close to their peak grip. But if the tires howl like a dog in pain, they've stopped rolling and grip has dropped. Release and reapply the brakes.
In an actual emergency, if you can't keep a non-ABS car at the squeal-of-delight level, you'll stop quicker with the howling dog-release-howling dog process than if you fail to push the brake pedal hard enough.
Without extensive practice, braking while turning without ABS is like taking a double black diamond ski slope: It can be done well only by those with skill and experience. But it's difficult and expensive: You will tear up tires and you may lose control. Many rental cars lack ABS: You take it from there.
Emergency #6: Crisis Stop With ABS If your car has ABS and you face a road-blocking emergency, here's what you do:
- Stomp the brake pedal to the floor. Kick it as if you're trying to snap it off.
- Stay hard on the pedal until the car comes to a complete stop. Hold the brake pedal to the floor as if you were pinning the head of an angry rattlesnake.
Practice before the actual emergency: Find a dead-end street or an empty parking lot. Start at a low speed, say, 25 mph. Stomp and Stay. The first time, you will almost certainly not push the brake hard enough, nor will you stay on the pedal until the car comes to a complete stop. The complete stop is important. Do it again at higher speeds. Ignore bad noises. Other than slightly accelerated brake and tire wear, you're not hurting the car. (I had one student run off the road because she wouldn't push the brake pedal hard enough: "I was afraid of skidding," she said. "You'd rather crash than skid?" I asked. Where's Tom's screwdriver?)
Emergency #7: Accident Avoidance Maneuvers Using ABS There's a third "S" that goes with ABS's "Stomp and Stay." It's Steer (around the obstacle). One of the great benefits of ABS is that it allows you to steer even while pushing hard on the brake. In radically oversimplified terms, it transfers a little bit of the tire's braking power into turning potential.
But a little bit of steering goes a very long way, and many drivers way overdo this part. I've had numerous students turn the wheel completely in one direction. The problem is that the instant the driver releases the brake pedal, the front tires are relieved of their braking duties and have 100 percent cornering power available, which sends the car into oncoming traffic or off the road.
Here's your parking lot practice mission: Set up a row of water-filled plastic soda bottles perpendicular to your path. If you have ABS, stomp the pedal to the floor, stay hard on the pedal and try to steer around them. It's simple and fun as well.
Emergency #8: Dropping Two Wheels off the Road This should be the easiest to handle of the 10 emergency situations, yet it results in a large number of fatalities each year. The answer is as easy as this: If you drop two wheels off the road, don't be in a hurry to get back on the pavement.
- Smoothly remove pressure from the gas pedal. Stay away from the brake pedal unless it can't be avoided (e.g., if you're headed downhill or there's an upcoming obstacle). Here's where ABS would be worth its weight in hundred-dollar bills.
- Drive parallel to the road: Allow the car to coast down to, say, 35 or 40 mph.
- Gently turn the wheel a very small amount: If you have to turn more than 5 degrees, you're going too fast. Let the car slow down more.
- If you face an obstacle, brake harder but don't try to reenter with more than 15 degrees of steering. The reason: If you have to turn the wheel, say, 45 or 60 degrees to get back on the pavement, the front tires will fully regain traction before the rears and either you'll spin out — likely hitting what you were trying to avoid — or shoot across the road into other traffic.
I once ran completely off a racetrack at 110 mph in an important turn. I straightened the steering up and allowed the car to slow down a bit. And I eased it back over onto the pavement. That mistake could have been tragic, but instead it cost me less than one second.
Even the curves you'll find on interstate highways need only the grip from two tires to stay firmly planted on the road.
Emergency #9 Front-Tire Slide Manufacturers work hard to make their cars lose front traction before rear grip. When front tires lose grip, most drivers' natural reaction is the correct reaction; that is:
- Say "Oh, fudge" (or similar) and have your adrenal gland increase your heart rate.
- Remove your foot from the gas pedal (and stay away from the brake pedal).
- Leave your hands where they are. More steering won't help and might hurt.
- Wait for the traction to return.
- Pray that the grip comes back before you get to the trees or concrete barriers.
Turning the wheel more or stepping on the brake is like writing additional checks from an already overdrawn account: You're already asking for more grip than the tires can provide. But something bad can happen if you turn the wheel more and the traction suddenly returns. Let's say it was a narrow strip of ice. On the other side of the ice, the road is barely even damp. The tires now have plenty of grip. And they think you just asked them to make a very hard left into oncoming traffic. "Yes, sir!"
Emergency #10: Rear-Tire Slide Words can no more teach you how to catch a rear-tire slide (stock car drivers call it "loose") than videos can teach you how to hit a curveball. Unlike a front-tire slide, you cannot successfully react to a rear-tire slide; you must anticipate it. If you don't anticipate it, you will spin out.
Then, you must act appropriately, putting in the correct amount of countersteering, anticipating the return of rear traction and removing the precise amount of countersteer at the correct rate. In driver's ed, Coach told you to turn in the direction of the skid. Did he ever say that at some point you've got to unwind the steering? Didn't think so.
There are a few moderate-cost ways to learn how to catch a sliding tail. The biggest bang for the buck is the "slick track" go-kart tracks found at many fun parks. The next step up is the indoor kart tracks found in most metro areas. When you're among the fastest drivers around the track, you're probably adequate when it comes to catching a rear-tire slide. A rear-drive car and a snow-covered parking lot also offer potential for practice — along with an equal chance for the cops to come visiting.
Third would be doing the skid-pad course at a performance driving school. Lots of terrific practice under professional guidance, but it's lots of money, too.
On the highway, though, no "Bs" are given for catching a sliding tail: There are either "As" or "Fs."
Here's my recommendation for those who can't get enough practice, to enable them to always perfectly deal with the loss of rear traction: The instant a rear slide makes you say "Oh, shoot" (or similar), pound the brake pedal to the floor and hold it there until the car comes to a complete stop. Then, count to three before proceeding. If you release the brakes before you've come to a complete stop — even if you're traveling but 5 mph — your car is going to go whichever way the tires are pointed, and that may cause you to hit something you just avoided.
Racecar fans have often seen a driver spin out at 175 mph and miraculously miss the wall, but while going no more than 25, release the brakes and smash into the wall or another car. This means the driver lost track of which way the steering wheel was pointed.
If you haven't gotten the message already, each of these tips on how to successfully survive a driving emergency must be practiced to be properly employed. For each, we've offered low- (or no- ) cost tips on how to get some training.
Here's an affordable way to practice most of these tips at once: Car-club autocrosses, also called Solo II. These are low-speed (less than 60 mph) one-car-at-a-time, against-the-clock competitions usually held in parking lots. The only things to hit are plastic traffic cones. Any well-maintained street car is eligible and entry fees are typically less than $50. (Check out the Sports Car Club of America for more.) Some clubs will loan helmets to first-timers and many hold free or low-cost driving schools.
While autocross won't hurt your car other than slightly accelerated brake wear, it will tear up your tires. You could wait until you need new tires to enter an event. To enable my children to practice the tips, I bought a set of "take-off" steel wheels on eBay for $75 and picked up a cheap set of tires.
While not inexpensive, the amount I spent on my teenagers' hands-on education was but a fraction of the cost of bodywork, much less hospital bills. And I sleep better at night with the knowledge that they know how to deal with common driving emergencies.
Source: Edmunds.com
Tuesday, October 9, 2012
Kia and DC Entertainment to match cars to Justice League superheroes
Kia Motors and DC Entertainment have announced a partnership to create automobiles wearing colors and customized to go along with each of the core members of the Justice League. DC Entertainment is the company behind the DC Comics brand that Justice League superheroes such as Superman, Batman, Wonder Woman, Green Lantern, The Flash, Aquaman, and Cyborg hail from. There will be eight custom cars created under this new partnership.
The cars will be designed with help from comic book artist and DC Entertainment co-publisher Jim Lee. Each of the previously mentioned core members of the Justice League will have one-of-a-kind cars unveiled over the next 10 months at major auto shows and comic-cons across the country. The cars will be unveiled at major events, including the New York Comic-Con, SEMA Show in Las Vegas, the North American International Auto Show in Detroit, Wonder-Con, and the San Diego Comic-Con.
Kia is supplying the vehicles for the project, and each superhero will be matched to the specific vehicle Kia makes that best matches the hero. The vehicles provided will include the Kia Optima, Soul, Sorrento, Sportage, Rio, and Forte. The cars will be customized by West Coast Customs, Rides Magazine, and Import Tuner magazine.
Other companies will also be lending assistance to the project. Kia and DC are working on the project to benefit a charity called “We Can Be Heroes” that was created to fight hunger in the Horn of Africa. Each of the eight vehicles created in the project will be a drivable custom car and auctioned off to raise money for the charity.
Source: SlashGear.com
Monday, October 8, 2012
Monday Maintenance Tip: Preserve your car during long-term storage
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If you are not going to use your car for more than a month, store it properly to prevent unnecessary damage and repairs upon your return.
- Fill the gas tank to help prevent condensation from accumulating in the gas tank. Add a fuel stabilizer and drive the car around a bit to distribute the additive to engine parts.
- Wash and wax the car thoroughly to protect the finish.
- Place a vapor barrier on your garage floor. A 4-mil polyethylene drop cloth will do.
- Disengage the parking brake to help avoid brake corrosion.
- Put the car on jack stands to take the weight of the vehicle off the wheels and tires.
- Disconnect and remove the battery to keep it from draining. Place the battery on a trickletype charger. Or periodically drain the battery, using a small light bulb, and then recharge it with a low-volt charger.
- Plug the tailpipe with a rag to prevent moist air from infiltrating into it.
Friday, October 5, 2012
Enter to win free oil changes for an entire year only at Valley-Hi Kia!
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To get full details and enter for a chance to win click here.Thursday, October 4, 2012
Kia Owner Loyalty Incentives
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Kia’s comprehensive Owner Loyalty incentives allow returning customers who lease or currently own a Kia to save huge on their next model. To see all offers and details click here: http://www.kia.com/#/offerstype/loyalty
Wednesday, October 3, 2012
A new month means new savings at Valley-Hi Kia!
See our coupon tab for details on how to save big: http://on.fb.me/Lu4hRU
Tuesday, October 2, 2012
Kia Motors Enters the Ranks of the 'Top 100 Best Global Brands'
Kia's remarkable increase in brand value is now estimated at $4.1 billion USD, which firmly sets the automaker at 87th place on the 'Top 100 Best Global Brands' list. This is a 50% increase from last year's estimated brand value and far exceeds the average automotive brand value growth rate of 11%. The 2012 edition of Interbrand's annual 'Best Global Brands' study was executed through a comprehensive brand performance analysis using best practice research methodology by expert analysts. The study measures a corporation's financial performance in terms of the raw financial return to investors; role that a brand plays in the actual purchase decision; and brand strength, which is the ability of a brand to secure the delivery of expected future earnings.
The strong increase in Kia's brand value closely mirrors the company's recent surge in global sales, which have posted three consecutive double-digit year-or-year gains to cement Kia's position as the world's fastest growing major automotive brand. Over this three year period (2008-2011), Kia's annual global sales have grown by 81% to nearly 2.5 million units.
Claire Chai, Vice President of Kia Motors Corp. Marketing Division, said, "Entering the 'Top 100 Best Global Brands' validates Kia's commitment to continuously provide exciting and inspiring brand experiences. And it's amazing to see what we can accomplish by staying true to who we are – a young and dynamic challenger that goes beyond expectations.
In addition to the major advances Kia has made on the product front, the company has also been executing numerous large-scale marketing initiatives that have helped raise awareness of the brand, including its sponsorship agreements with the world's premier sporting events like the FIFA World Cup, Australian Open and National Basketball Association. Kia has also made effective in-roads towards engaging its young-at-heart customers through a strong presence on social media channels and innovative advertising campaigns such as the eccentric music-loving hamsters TV commercials seen in the USA for Kia's iconic Soul urban crossover vehicle.
Souce: Kia Media
Thursday, September 27, 2012
Wednesday, September 26, 2012
Hurry in to take advantage of these great savings!
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Tuesday, September 25, 2012
Monday, September 24, 2012
Monday Maintenance Tip: Checking Your Coolant
What is it?
Coolant is the fluid that absorbs heat from the engine and then dissipates it through the radiator. It is also dissipated through the heat exchanger in the passenger compartment when you crank your heat in the winter.
Coolant, which is commonly called antifreeze, is a mixture of ethylene or propylene glycol and water, usually in a 50/50 ratio.
Servicing the coolant involves draining and/or flushing your car's cooling system and then replacing the old coolant with fresh coolant.
Should I do this service when it's recommended?
Yes. Draining out the coolant and refilling the system removes dirt and rust particles that can clog up the cooling system and cause problems in winter and summer.
Why do I have to do this?
Because it is operating in a hot, hostile environment, coolant will break down over time. Most importantly, the coolant's rust inhibitors get used up, leaving the small cooling passages in your engine and radiator vulnerable to corrosion. Even with these rust inhibitors, some corrosion will inevitably take place, contaminating the coolant with debris.
What happens if I don't do this?
If the rust inhibitors stop working, the cooling system will rust from the inside out. The biggest source of rust in a car's cooling system is the engine block.
In time, these bits of rust will also clog the tiny passages within the radiator and heater, causing your engine to overheat. When an engine overheats, the result is a bonus yacht payment to your mechanic that someone else should be making.
Is there any maintenance required between intervals?
Check your coolant level periodically. Your owner's manual will have a recommended interval in which to check the coolant level.
If you check your coolant level when the engine is cold, the coolant should be at or above the "minimum" or "fill" line on the transparent refill container. If you check your coolant level when the engine is hot, the coolant should be at or just below the "max" line.
Disappearance of coolant could be caused by either an external or internal leak, the latter being more expensive. Either one should be addressed quickly, since running low or out of coolant can lead to catastrophic engine failure and many boat payments to your mechanic.
If you live where the temperature dips below freezing, we suggest that you ask your mechanic to check the concentration of the coolant. Coolant that's diluted or weak can freeze when the temperature drops below 32 degrees Fahrenheit.
Check your owner's manual to see if your car uses "long-life" coolant. For the first 100,000 miles, it is necessary to check the coolant level simply to be sure you're not leaking or burning coolant.
Courtesy: CarTalk.com
Thursday, September 20, 2012
Wednesday, September 19, 2012
Car Tip of the Week: How To Drive a Stick Shift
The way we see it, there are two types of drivers: those who can drive a car equipped with a manual transmission and those who cannot.
Some might think it's a generational thing with the olde-timey folks and their "standard" transmission abilities on one side and the post-manual crowd on the other. And in fact, Edmunds data shows that 93 percent of cars bought in the U.S. to date in 2012 had automatic transmissions and just two pedals.
There's been a mini surge in stick-shift sales recently, however. It's true that only 7 percent of the cars sold so far this year had manual transmissions, but that's almost twice the 3.8 percent sold in 2011.
Ford has seen stick-shift sales perk up. The carmaker expected that 4.5 percent of its 2012 Focus models would be purchased with a stick. It turned out to be 6.7 percent, and the company anticipates even greater interest with the advent of the Focus Titanium trim level's five-speed manual option.
Maybe those Focus buyers are on to something. It turns out that there are a number of very good reasons to be among the 7-percenters who know how to drive a three-pedal car.
Why Learn To Drive With a Stick Shift?
It's a good skill to have, kind of like speaking a second language. If you get stuck somewhere or with somebody who needs your help or wants you to share driving duties on a long trip, you "Habla Manual." Secondly, there are some really sexy, cool cars that are available only with a manual transmission like the 2012 Fiat Abarth or, assuming your wallet can handle it, the $180,000 2012 Aston Martin V12 Vantage. Maybe your tastes run to a hard-core sports cars like the 2012 Porsche Cayman R or the 2012 Ford Shelby GT500. These can only be had with manual transmissions.
Besides new cars (and some trucks, of course), there are countless vintage or collectible cars that require DIY shifting. Meanwhile, budget-minded buyers will be happy to learn manual transmission cars can be less expensive in both the new- and used-car markets. Because fewer people know how to drive cars with stick shifts, the sellers could have a tougher time moving them. So — depending on the car — you could swoop in for a good buy.
Finally, with modern electronics providing distance-keeping cruise control, automatic emergency braking, active lane-keeping and automated parking, some new cars barely know we're here. They can practically drive themselves. Rowing your own gears enhances driving pleasure because it connects you to a car in a way that an automatic can't. A car with a manual transmission literally needs you in a way an automatic doesn't. Like the bond that a horse and its rider form when things are in sync, you, too, will feel the pleasure of the relationship that develops between you and your manual-transmission car.
As with so many other things in life, reading instructions about the way to do something and learning by doing are two parts of a whole. The best way to get started is to have an empty parking lot, an hour to learn and a trusted, patient instructor sitting alongside you. Reading this primer beforehand simply will give you some knowledge and the confidence to best approach your time behind the wheel — and beside the shifter. Let's get to work.
Clutch Basics
Just as you would with any car, you first should find a comfortable and effective seating position so that your distance to the pedals and steering wheel facilitates ease of use. You might need to adjust your seat to accommodate this new third pedal so you can depress it to the floor.
With the car not yet running — preferably on a level surface and with the parking brake engaged — first learn how the clutch feels. See how much effort it requires to move the pedal to the floor and how springy it is on return.
Besides the fact that you're using your neglected left leg to press it, the clutch pedal likely feels different from either the brake or throttle. Some clutch pedals have an action that feels light and uniform in both directions. Others might feel somewhat sticky — initially firm and then going soft as the pedal nears the end of its travel. The clutch might also spring back forcefully.
While you may always press the clutch pedal as quickly as you wish, letting it back up must be a smooth and steady affair, especially in 1st and 2nd gears. This is doubly true for getting the car rolling from a standstill in 1st gear. For now, before we turn the key and start the engine, practice letting the clutch pedal rise slowly.
Get to the Gears
Now it's time to learn where all the gears are — including reverse — and to get the feel of how to come back to neutral. You'll find neutral is the place where the lever will naturally return, more or less straight up, when no gear is selected. Push the lever to either side and allow it to spring back to center. (Later, you'll find the centering spring that makes this happen will also help you locate and shift gears.)
Most levers have the shift pattern illustrated on top of the knob. Some require an extra step to engage reverse. It might be an extra collar ring just below the shift knob that needs to be lifted. More often, there's an extra-firm detent — or catch-point — that requires exaggerated force to move the lever past it and into reverse. Repeat the shifter's path to reverse several times so it won't be a mystery when the time comes to back up.
Now, move the lever from 1st to 2nd gear and use some slight pressure from your palm to the left to help keep the lever aligned into the gate for 2nd gear. Make note of how far the lever has to travel to be fully in gear. Some cars have "long throws" while others (like sports cars) have shorter ones. For the 2nd-to-3rd shift, again use only your open hand. With your palm, slowly push the knob forward. Notice that once out of 2nd gear, the centering spring pops the lever back to neutral — precisely in line for 3rd gear. Convenient, right?
Continue straight forward with pressure from only your palm and you'll naturally find 3rd without a need for your guidance to the left or right. It's best to palm the shift knob because when we grab, squeeze or white-knuckle the knob and forcibly attempt to aim or channel the shifter from one gear to the next, it will often miss. Let the centering spring do its job.
Third-to-4th is a straight pull, so no side-to-side pressure is needed. Pushing ahead, 4th-to-5th will require some diagonal pressure to the right, but not much. Remember that you still don't need to grip the knob as if it is some sort of antique agricultural machinery. Just use your palm and some deliberate pressure, plus movement. If your car has a 6th gear, it's much like the 3rd-to-4th shift, but with a modicum of pressure to the right — perhaps even with your hand inverted with the thumb pointing at the floor.
Finally, practice pressing the clutch pedal and moving the shifter at the same time in one synchronized action. This should not be a three-step operation, as in: press clutch, move shifter, release clutch. You will, of course, let the clutch pedal rise after each gear is selected. Now practice: Clutch/shift, then release the clutch, in two steps. Don't worry about the gas pedal for now. It will come in later and it will be natural to you when it does.
Now that we've got a feel for things, let's get moving.
Getting to First
The biggest, most intimidating barrier to learning to drive a car with a stick shift is getting the car moving from a standstill. The good news is that once the car is in motion, shifting gears is a much easier, less finicky variation on that first, sometimes frustrating hurdle. We know you're worried that you're going to forget to do something or you're going to get the pedal efforts mixed up. In any case, you're going to stall the car. Just accept that right now.
You're going to say "I'm sorry," and if your teacher is a good one, you'll be hearing "That's OK." This is why an empty parking lot is such a time-honored tradition in stick-shift initiation. You don't have the added distractions of real-world traffic or the pressure of having impatient drivers around you.
It's finally time to start the car! Because the parking brake is still engaged, you don't really need to press the brake pedal while twisting the key or pressing the ignition button, but it's a good habit to maintain. You will, however, need to press the clutch pedal to the floor — regardless of the brakes or the shifter's location. With both the brake and the clutch pedals depressed, select 1st gear and release the parking brake. Move your right foot off the brake and over the throttle.
Assuming the car has a tachometer, use the throttle to rev the engine to about 1,500-2,000 revolutions-per-minute (rpm). Fewer revs than that and you'll likely stall the car. More revs and you're going to wear out the clutch prematurely. While hovering the revs around 1,500 rpm, slowly allow your left leg to rise. Notice when the clutch actually begins to "bite" or take hold of the spinning engine. If you stall the car, don't panic. Simply engage the parking brake, press the clutch and brake pedals to the floor and start the car again.
If, on the other hand, all goes well, you'll be rolling slowly with the clutch pedal completely up and ready to accelerate in 1st gear. But, instead of going to 2nd gear, press the clutch to the floor and gently press the brake and come to a stop in 1st gear. Do this a few times to practice coming to a stop and getting rolling again. You might even pick a spot in the parking lot where you can imagine a stop sign or two.
After a number of stops and starts, proceed from 1st to 2nd gear. While accelerating in 1st gear and as the revs climb to about 3,000 rpm, do all three of the following at the same time: release the throttle, press the clutch pedal and move the shifter to 2nd gear. Then slowly let the clutch pedal up and when you feel the clutch biting, go back to the gas gently. Then fully release the clutch pedal. Voilà.
If there's enough room in the abandoned parking lot, pick up some speed and try 3rd gear. Remember, you can always come to a safe stop by depressing the clutch to the floor and pressing the brake pedal.
Congratulations!
You might have stalled a few times, but you've taken the first steps toward joining the elite ranks of drivers who know the rewards of driving with a stick shift. It's fun, right? Now, go forth and seize the sports car you've always wanted to buy or make an offer on that economical hatchback that's been off-limits because it doesn't have an automatic transmission.
Source: Edmunds.com
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